Unique in many ways, Lake George is nonetheless the last of the three remaining Howard Johnson's Restaurants to most remind us of what a HoJo's was. Like everything else in the world, its future is somewhat muddled. Carl R. DeSantis, its founder, turned over the keys of the Restaurant to his sons several years ago, and operations were scaled back so that the eatery is only open "seasonally."

Moreover the family has embarked on an ambitious Hampton Inn project that is adjacent to the restaurant and is surely a considerable distraction. Finally Mr. DeSantis himself had been active in the now defunct FAI (he was even its chairman for a period of time), and with it out of the picture and LaMancha calling the shots, how much longer can Lake George remain Under the Orange Roof--especially without any standardized products or marketing support.